Shooting a modern compound bow that is out of tune is like driving a car that has a flat tyre. It may eventually get you where you want to go, but the ride would be a lot better if you fixed that flat.
This little volume by Larry Wise, the recognised authority on bow maintenance and tuning, will lead you, step by step, through the tuning process with special emphasis on how to recognise problems and what to do about them. There are even sections on arrow and string making.
In exacting detail, Larry tells us how we can get our bow in tune and keep it there without resorting to a pro shop. Here are just a few of the subjects covered: Fast Flite string/cable system; Tuning cam and eccentric wheel bows; Compound bow power stroke; Understanding the force-draw curve, and making it work for you; Wheel functions and tillering; Making, serving and repairing cables and bowstrings; And much more...
Let's face it! The above book, Larry Wise's Tuning the Compound Bow is great stuff but way more technical than it has to be for the average bloke who only wants to get his bowhunting rig shooting as accurately and silently as possible.
This book, Tuning & Silencing Your Bowhunting System also by Larry Wise, is designed for the bowhunter who is more interested in getting out of the shop and into the bush than he or she is in reading all about the finer details of compound bow design and function. Thus, this book contains five chapters with specific instructions on tuning and silencing the modern compound hunting bow plus shooting strategies and practice guidelines and heaps of general information.
Tuning & Silencing Your Bowhunting System is a paperback with 170 pages and lots of photos and diagrams.
You can actually do a reasonably good job sharpening serrated broadheads and knives by using a half-round jewelers file, available from most hardware stores. If you want a truly professional edge, the best bet is the Lansky Sharpening Kit.
Regardless of which tool you chose, each serration must be sharpened individually. Most broadheads and knives with serrated edges are factory ground at an angle of about 20 to 25 degrees. Clamp the broadhead or blade in a vice or in the Lansky holder then stroke the file or hone over the serration carefully maintaining the factory angel.
Check your progress frequently with a fingertip, and once you can feel a tiny raised burr on the back of the blade it is time to move on to the next serration. When all serrations have been sharpened to a burr edge, turn the blade over and file or hone off the burr by sliding the sharpening tool very lightly over the back of the blade. Do this by holding the tool flat against the blade and use only enough pressure to remove the burr without cutting into the blade itself.
It takes longer to sharpen a serrated blade than a straight one but after you master the knack, you will have better edges on your broadheads and knives than the ones that came from the factory.