Wac'em Triton 3-Blade
Broadheads for Today's High-Speed Compound Bows
Re-Sharpenable Mini Broadheads
The Wac'em Triton is the most exciting broadhead to hit the South Pacific bowhunting scene in decades.
Triton Broadheads are made in three parts; the ferrule, the blades, and a collar to hold it all together. The front of the each Wac'em blade is held secure by a lip in the broadhead tip. The back of the blade is held equally secure by the collar. For the first time in bowhunting history, this two-point locking system gives the Triton the same blade security as a fixed-blade broadhead.
Here are a few other things to consider:
- Triton's cut-on-impact head has a greater cutting surface and a continuous cutting angle give Tritons less drag with no loss of kinetic energy. The result is unmatched penetration.
- Tritons are constructed from one piece of steel on one machine giving greater precision and uniformity than any other broadhead on the market.
- Triton's precise radii in the blade vents practically eliminate arrow flight noise.
- The Triton has no heavy tip in front of the cutting surface so you get near-perfect field-tip to-broadhead conversion.
- With individual tang slots and less force on the blades, the Triton will maintain blade sharpness and integrity better than any other three blade head on the market. Tritons are available in 85, 100, and 125 grain all with a 1 1/32-inch cutting diameter
- Lastly (and this is a big one!) Triton Broadheads are the only replaceable-blade broadhead that can be easily sharpened and re sharpened on any flat hone. Our G5 Diamond Sharpener is the perfect tool for this important task.
QUICK TIPS
Sharpening Broadheads
There is no "best" way to sharpen broadheads. Nearly everyone who uses them has a favourite method and they are all the best as long as they work. For years I laboured over hone and stone then finished them off with a leather strop until the edge would shave hair off the back of my arms. This was a lot of work and, with all those plasters, made for some funny looking arms .
Now I use a small flat jeweler's file with a fine cut and leave it at that. It is quick and easy, and I now have normal looking arms. The serrated edge left by the file appears to be even more effective than the razor-sharp edge. As for replaceable-blade heads, like the Muzzys and Thunderheads, it is possible to sharpen them by clamping each blade in pliers and using a very fine well-oiled hone, but it is tricky and a lot of work and can lead to cut fingers.
Inspired by a question by Martin from Wellington